Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka has been a dream destination for us for quite some time but our usual past concerns like expenses, planning, and the major question of, "can we survive this with the kids?" kept us away. Whatever else we have survived with the kids, this now seems easy! And so, it's the perfect finale to our incredible eight-month round-the-world journey! I can hardly believe the word "finale" is coming out of my keyboard and we have our flight home booked! We've been dodging thinking about it, keeping reality at bay! But here we are, at this incredible moment, at the final destination, with just weeks left before we're back on UK soil! BUT... we don't have to think about that just yet... We've got an exciting couple of weeks to explore Sri Lanka first!
After our late flight touched down in Colombo in the evening, we booked two nights in an Airbnb right in the city centre to catch our breath, get our bearings, and plan for the adventure ahead. Dan considered renting a car, but after our heart-stopping experiences on Indian roads, and realising that hiring a driver was actually cheaper, we were greeted by Nuwan, our designated driver for the whole trip, at the airport with warm smiles and shell necklaces for everyone, starting the trip off with a warm feeling inside!
After three weeks of doing the hotel shuffle in India, hitting the supermarket for pasta and ketchup felt like winning the lottery! Having our own space again meant we could do whatever we wanted — like watching the kids inhale an entire loaf of trusty sliced white bread with butter! After catching some quality Z's in our comfy beds, we planned to chill and plot our next moves. But Nuwan had other plans, eager to showcase his city. First, he whisked us away to the Colombo Lotus Tower - an amazing addition to the Sri Lankan skyline, it’s apparently the tallest self-supported structure in South Asia and the tallest skyscraper in the country. Up we went, gazed at the views from the top, and got schooled in Sri Lankan history inside thanks to the Pixel Bloom, the immersive and interactive digital art experience. After that, he took us to Independence Square, where instead of soaking in the architecture and the history of independence, we were greeted by a guy with a monkey on a lead?! He also has a cobra in a basket, and then casually drops a hefty fabric bag with a python inside. We ended up spending twenty minutes chatting with him, with more unexpected snake charming and a python wrapped around our necks. After a quick bite, Nuwan was eager to show us more sights, but we desperately needed to sit down to plan, and at least book our next stop. So we headed back to map out our route, and take a final splash in the rooftop pool, before our early pickup and four-hour drive to Sigiriya we had now booked for the morning.
We chose the UNESCO World Heritage site Sigiriya as our first stop, excited to explore the iconic rock fortress, plus it made sense to head in a clockwise direction around the island, with plans to unwind at the beach at the end. Our decision was also fuelled by its close proximity to Hurulu Eco Park, a fantastic spot to be able to witness elephants in their natural habitat. With Nuwan waiting for us at 8.30am, we set off on our four hour journey, with a safari booked at the Eco Park for that afternoon.
Maybe it was tourist fatigue, or the looming end date making everyone think about home, or simply the whirlwind tour of India still catching up with us, but whatever it was, everyone was feeling on the edge and bickering pointlessly with each other! We were sat ready to go in the safari jeep, all fuming over some argument I can't even remember now! I'm glad to say, as soon as the jeep took off, everything changed. We were soon alongside two elephants peacefully going about their day, kicking at the grass and skilfully curling it into their trunks and twirling it into their mouths. It was incredible to watch them from a respectful distance, in their natural environment, just living their best lives. After questioning seeing elephants in Bali and especially in Jaipur, where you get up close and personal, this was something truly special — no human interference, just elephants being elephants.
We journeyed on for a couple of hours, spotting several elephants along the way. One particularly magical moment was when we spotted a mother and her baby, accompanied by another pregnant female. As the only truck there, we sat in silence and awe watching as they casually strolled past us like it was a Sunday walk in the park. It was truly amazing. We finished the safari by making our way to a raised viewing point. From there, we sat down watching the sight of about ten to fifteen elephants on the plain in front of us, each moving around in their own little groups. It felt like a scene straight out of a Disney film, and we felt incredibly lucky to witness it!
Bright and early the next morning, Nuwan swooped in at 7am to whisk us away ready to conquer Sigiriya (or Lions) Rock, with our goal to beat the crowds and the heat. We were successful with the crowds, the heat - definitely less so! Sigiriya Rock, hailed by UNESCO as the 8th Wonder of the World, is a marvel with its rich history. Archaeological evidence shows it was inhabited during prehistoric times, with the grand limestone rock hosting a palace, garden, and frescoes, all courtesy of King Kasyapa from the 5th century AD. This might just be the oldest wonder (official or not) we've encountered on our travels!
We soon learned that to get to the palace ruins at the top, there are 1,200 uneven steps made out of a combination of stone and metal to climb first. As we began our ascent, a fellow climber cheerfully advised, "Don't look down!" Despite the intense heat, Fin’s motivating mantra, “eyes on the prize,” kept us all moving steadily, one determined step at a time. At one point, Phoebe hesitated and mentioned feeling unwell. I encouraged her to push through, not to overthink, and just keep stepping forward. We hit a corner with a little breathing room where she could catch her breath. She collapsed dramatically into Dan’s arms, tears streaming, while the rest of us had to continue upward to keep room on the steps. We reached the top and found some shade under some trees, waiting for about ten minutes before they arrived. When they joined us, we learned that Phoebe had experienced a panic attack, overwhelmed by the height, heat, and her breathing. Luckily, Dan was able to offer the perfect words to soothe her back to calmness, and she was able to enjoy the view from the summit. Although, forget about the view! The girls discovered a puppy which of course instantly took all their attention, offering the perfect comfort to Phoebe, and causing them to now completely ignore what we came up here to look at and learn about!
Back to the hotel for a quick breakfast and to pack up, ready for our next exciting stop! We were keen to head straight to Nuwara Eliya for our epic train adventure, but realising the drive would be a bit too long, we opted for an overnight pit stop in Kandy to break up the travel. There, we explored the famous botanical gardens recommended by a charming elderly gentleman we met in India. Spanning sixty hectares, it's the largest and most spectacular botanic garden in Sri Lanka. It was lovely to wander around, watching Sri Lankan families, couples, and friends enjoying their time, playing, and picnicking in this beautiful setting.
The next day, we were off to Nuwara Eliya, gearing up for the most stunning stretch of the famous Kandy to Ella train ride. On our way, Nuwan suggested a stop at a tea plantation. Having missed this chance in India, we were all in for a deep dive into the tea world — seeing the pickers in action and sneaking a peek inside a factory. We were genuinely curious about the journey from leaf to teabag, which we usually toss in our mugs without a second thought. Naturally, this idea was met with a chorus of groans from the kids, who understandably had absolutely zero interest in a tea factory! We encouraged them by reminding them how we've found learning about stuff we didn't know we cared about has often been the most interesting. In an attempt to amp up the excitement for them, we booked a safari jeep to bounce us along the rocky roads of the plantations, stopping at various points to soak in the breathtaking views.
After about half an hour of bouncing around in the jeep, we finally parked and prepared to explore on foot. We soon encountered an incredible roadblock — loud music, joyful shrieking and chanting, and hundreds of Sri Lankans dressed in their finest, making their way up a hill in the plantation. Our driver, as cool as a cucumber, stopped the car and urged us to hop out while he casually parked elsewhere, seemingly unaware that we felt like party crashers at an astonishing cultural celebration! He pointed us in the right direction, and off we went, navigating through the lively crowd with smiles and polite "excuse me's." As we ventured further into the vibrant throng, we found ourselves next to a truck, trying to squeeze past, when we witnessed something absolutely unbelievable — a large wooden pole in the back of the truck with a man attached to a pulley system by hooks in his back, thighs, and calves, bouncing around with a stick through both sides of his cheek! We squeezed by, eyes wide as saucers, wondering if we were in a scene from Indiana Jones!
As we continued along, we were amazed to discover two more trucks, each with the same incredible setup - more men hanging from hooks through their skin! The atmosphere was electric, with everyone around enthusiastically chanting, drumming, cheering, smiling, and laughing - even though it looked like a form of torture! We asked to take pictures, and they all eagerly agreed, proudly smiling and sharing this unforgettable moment with us. The final truck was the ultimate surprise - a woman this time, standing in a wooden cage, hanging from the same pulley system, with about a hundred hooks coming out of her body along the sides, and an astonishing tongue piece hanging out of her mouth. Truly jaw-dropping! Honestly, I've never seen the kids so silent and wide-eyed, taking it all in!
Our jeep driver finally caught up with us, and despite the language barrier, we eagerly sought an explanation. We believe this is a Hindu festival called Adi Vel, a big event for Sri Lankan Hindus. The festival revolves around the god Murugan, and the participants passionately display their devotion to this deity and the Hindu faith. It's a vibrant celebration bursting with pride in the devotees' beliefs. This was absolutely NOT for tourists! It was pure, authentic religion and culture unfolding right before our eyes! We learned that it only occurs once a year, and once our initial panic subsided, we felt incredibly fortunate to have stumbled upon it. Of all the countries we've explored and the experiences we've encountered, this stands out as the most authentic, genuine, and culturally rich (and yes, a bit terrifying!), offering us so much more than any textbook ever could!
Returning to the tea factory felt about as thrilling as watching paint dry after that wild experience! We wrapped up the tour with a tea tasting session to soothe our frayed nerves and excitement, before hopping back into the car with Nuwan and heading to our hotel, all set for our legendary train journey the next morning.
The Kandy to Ella train ride is renowned for its stunning views and often hailed as one of the most beautiful train journeys on the planet! After our fourteen-hour train ride in India, the kids were less than thrilled about hopping back on another train so soon. But Nuwan came to the rescue by suggesting the perfect stations to start and end our journey, allowing us to skip the full duration. We embarked at Nuwara Eliya, journeyed past Ella to witness the iconic Nine Arch Bridge from the train, and concluded at Demodara station. Here, we marveled at the incredible Demodara Loop in action—a unique railway spiral where the track loops back above itself due to some engineering mishap. It's said to be the only place in the world where this has happened. The journey was absolutely breathtaking! We had reserved seats, but who could resist the thrill of sitting by the open door or leaning out to soak it all in? It was the ultimate way to experience the country, catching glimpses of lively villages and chatting with the other passengers. The four hour journey whizzed by.
Before arriving in Sri Lanka, we had read tales of Adam's Peak, or Sri Pada, a holy mountain with a summit featuring a giant footprint shaped dent. Buddhists think it’s Buddha’s footprint, Hindus say it's Lord Shiva’s, and Muslims and Christians reckon it's Adam’s. We were keen to tackle it, but as we delved deeper, we discovered that reaching the summit requires a challenging climb, with steep steps and uneven terrain, usually beginning at night. The promise of a breathtaking sunrise view of Sri Lanka was tempting, but with four unenthusiastic kids in tow, we decided to add it to our “next time” bucket list. Thankfully, right in the heart of Ella town stands Little Adam’s Peak, named for its resemblance to the renowned peak. Both share a similar conical shape, and although Little Adam’s Peak is 1,141 meters above sea level, the existing high elevation means there's just a 2-kilometre trail to hike to the top. Perfect! Obviously with the kids still moaning, off we go to conquer this mini-mountain instead.
Halfway up, we stumbled upon the Flying Ravana Adventure Park, which we hadn’t seen in our research. It was like finding a surprise party with ziplining, abseiling, ATV tours, and more! The kids were itching for another zipline adventure after our last one in Costa Rica, so we decided to sign up — on the condition that there’d be no moaning when we had to hike back up again! Unfortunately, Fin was 2kg too light for the zipline, and the staff weren’t about to bend the rules. Lucky for us, he loves climbing, and there was a massive climbing wall waiting for him. So, the girls and Dan zipped off on the zipline, Fin conquered the climbing wall, and I was left with the thrilling task of bag-sitting!
After burning through their adrenaline after all that fun and excitement, we had to endure an extra bit of grumbling during the little hike, but we soldiered on and made it to the top. The views were absolutely jaw-dropping, but the real show stoppers? The stray dogs living up there, who kept the girls entertained while we soaked in the scenery and snapped some pics!
We're back in the car with Nuwan and on our way to our hotel in Tissamaharama, all set for Poppy’s birthday tomorrow and the exciting safari we’ve planned for her. The hotel is delightfully small, almost like a cosy family home, with just three bedrooms. We’re the only guests here and have the family room - all six of us sharing one room for the ultimate, last big sleepover of the trip! Bittersweet times! With stunning views over the rice paddies, it’s the perfect, serene escape, complete with its own pool. This is the first spot since we arrived in Colombo where we’ve booked two nights, and it feels amazing to unwind a bit, knowing we won't be packing up and moving on in the morning!
We casually mention to Ricky, the hotel manager, that it’s Poppy’s birthday before heading out to dinner. The next morning at breakfast, he surprises us by bringing out a cake with sparklers for her! It was such an unexpected and thoughtful gesture, and it made her beam from ear to ear, feeling truly special. Nuwan had already asked us the day before if we wanted him to help find a cake, so we actually had another one coming later - but who wouldn't love having two cakes on their birthday?!
Nuwan picks us up at lunchtime for the safari at Yala National Park, sneakily handing the ordered cake to Dan to stash in the fridge. He then surprises Poppy with an adorable teddy bear he bought just for her, along with six extra cupcakes he brought himself. Another unexpected kind gesture that truly warms our hearts, especially while Pops is missing celebrating her birthday with family and friends. With excitement in the air, we all hop into the safari jeep with Nuwan’s friend, filled with anticipation and convinced it’s going to be a lucky day for spotting leopards!
Just minutes into the safari, whilst being on a birthday video call with Poppy's Grannie and cousins in Bristol, we excitedly spot our first elephant herd! A group of these gorgeous creatures were waddling alongside a watering hole, seeking shade under the trees. It was so cute to share this magical moment with the family on the other end of the line!
The safari stretched from 1pm to 6pm, and in that time, we spotted a couple more elephant parades, loads of water buffaloes (our new fave — thinking maybe the Riverside Walk in Liss could use a few??). We saw peacocks strutting their stuff, crocodiles doing their best log impressions, a bunch of fascinating birds, and plenty of deer. At one point, a herd of deer went sprinting past, and we were sure a leopard was hot on their tails. But alas, after hours of eager anticipation, we had to admit defeat! No leopards were in the mood to play today. Just like at Ranthambore, instead of feeling let down, you can't help but give a round of applause to the leopards. It makes you wonder about the impact of these safari jeeps barging into national parks, but it's good to know there's still plenty of room for the animals to hide, while also providing jobs and an income for the local community. The whole thing was a blast, zooming around and bouncing through potholes, chuckling at another jeep stuck in the mud, while trying to help them and free it, with dirty water from the pothole spraying everywhere, waving and sharing laughs with others in passing jeeps. Just pure FUN! We all came back thinking, "A year ago, a safari was just a dream," and now we can say we've done three! It doesn't really matter which animals you see; the entire experience is just amazing, and we all feel super lucky! It's time to head back for dinner and enjoy the third and final round of birthday cake!
This photo was actually taken at the Hurulu Eco Park but I had to put it in because, what a vibe!
The next day, we're off to our last stop in Sri Lanka, marking the grand finale of this incredible eight-month adventure! We're heading to Weligama for another dose of beach bum life (fingers crossed it's as chill as Palolem) and a last stint in a dog sanctuary, before we head back to reality. To break up the three-hour journey, Nuwan takes us to a bird park, a bit like Birdworld in Surrey, where it feels completely bonkers to see all these beautiful birds in cages, especially since we've seen them flying freely in all the countries we've visited, as common as magpies in the UK. We zip through the park and get sucked into the parrot feeding frenzy, where we're soon swarmed by what feels like a gazillion parrots. Fin wasn't too thrilled and wisely stayed on the sidelines with Nuwan! Back on the road, we make another stop at Hummanaya Blowhole, where, once again, the girls find a stray dog to adore, feed and give water to, while we soak in the natural wonder.
Finally, we arrive at Weligama and our very last Airbnb! I need to tally up how many times we've packed and unpacked during this trip — it feels very surreal to be in our final spot, knowing the next pack-up is the one that will take us home!
On our last day booked with Nuwan as our trusty chauffeur, he arrives at the crack of dawn — 6am sharp — to whisk us away on a whale-watching tour with a friend of his who owns a boat. Mirissa is the ultimate whale-watching hotspot, thanks to its location next to the Indian Ocean and the seasonal parade of various whale species. We're at the tail end of peak blue whale season, and the excitement is real! We hop aboard and sail off at sunrise, eager to see what wonders await us.
We seem to not be having much luck on our safaris, and our safari of the sea is no different! We did have a couple of flurries of excitement where whale movement was spotted, and some of us managed to see the spray of water a fin whale sprayed, but we didn’t manage to catch a glimpse of the whale itself, or any other whales. Dolphins are apparently usually 100% guaranteed, but they also decided to stay under today. We did however spot two turtles bobbing along at separate points in the ocean, and a baby manta ray. So, as always, we left feeling very lucky and pleased again that the boats arent encroaching on the big blue sea out there and the marine animals can still outsmart us!
We're wrapping up our time here in the most pawsome way possible (yep, I did it again) - doing what we absolutely love, spending time with dogs! We chose this area in Sri Lanka after discovering the amazing charity, Animals SOS Sri Lanka, started by Kim Cooling, a passionate woman from the UK who was moved to action after witnessing the overwhelming number of street dogs in Sri Lanka. We reached out to the volunteer helpline and are excited to be all set to help out. Our first exciting session kicks off splashing around in the sea, doing hydrotherapy with the disabled dogs. We can't wait!
In the coming days spent at the sanctuary, we discover that in Sri Lanka, the practice of euthanising dogs is not as prevalent as in other countries, due to cultural and religious beliefs. Buddhists, in particular, believe in allowing dogs to pass away naturally. This topic sparks multiple discussions among us, especially as we encounter hundreds of disabled dogs living here, prompting questions about their quality and enjoyment of life. Most dogs spend their days in the compound, with special attention only directed to the disabled dogs and puppies, who get prioritised time to play in the garden. The incredible disabled dogs, many missing multiple limbs due to road accidents, are true survivors! Some have even lost parts of their jaws or snouts from explosive traps locals use to protect crops from animals and elephants. Despite these challenges, the spirit of these dogs shines through. Some can't move at all, devastatingly spending the majority of their time in the commune or kennel with hundreds of other dogs, but thanks to the amazing volunteers, they get to bask in the sunshine on the grass for a couple of hours at least. One unforgettable German Shepherd, completely unable to use her legs, still manages to roll over for a tummy rub. She hadn't been outside for months, only venturing out when a strong volunteer could carry her. It was a tough few days, but understanding their needs and offering support was incredibly rewarding. I am so proud of all the kids at this point. They are so eager to return every day and stay even longer after all the other volunteers have gone home. It's amazing to see how naturally caring and giving they are towards animals.
There are noticeably more dogs on the streets in Sri Lanka than anywhere else we've visited and the numbers in the sanctuary just keep on increasing. We discovered that the local religious beliefs also discourage interfering with reproduction, making it challenging for charities to implement spay and neuter programs like they do elsewhere. While other sanctuaries we've visited felt under control, this one in Sri Lanka left us with a sense of urgency and a desire to help. The workers and volunteers face an incredible challenge in providing the animals with the love, attention, and care they truly deserve. It's definitely given us a lot to think about, and our minds are already full with ideas on how we can make a real difference... We are certain there is something more we can do. Lets watch this space.
We kicked off this incredible adventure by riding the waves at Ipanema Beach in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and we're wrapping it up by catching the afternoon surf on Weligama Beach, Sri Lanka after chilling with dogs at the sanctuary in the mornings. Seriously, what a way to cap off eight months! We're heading back home feeling like happy, fulfilled beach bums with a permanent 'sun, sea, and surf' glow. Please, please, please can this vibe stick around longer than our tan lines?! Oh, and Pheebs has finally caught the reading bug and now can’t put her kindle down!
We all wish we could linger longer, soaking up this sunny life between sanctuary and surf, but we have four of our own special furry friends eagerly waiting for us at home! And so, here we are. This is it. This is the end!! We did it! I can hardly believe it. Eight months have zipped by like eight minutes!! I have to say a huge thank you to everyone who's been following our adventures. Honestly, your emails and messages of support have really boosted us along the way and it's been so lovely knowing that people back home are behind us, believing in us, and keeping tabs on us. When I first started writing the blog, I wasn't too sure what I was doing or what the point of it would be. A couple of people suggested I should, and in the beginning it was just an absolute breath of fresh air to write for a good reason instead of just firing off constant emails to schools all the time. I've always been a bookworm, and it turns out that I really enjoy writing too (even though I still have a massive challenge every time I open my laptop and try to figure out how to open Word, which, let's be honest, doesn't surprise anyone who knows me!). So I just want to say that all the kind words you've shared in response to our blogs have been deeply appreciated.
There's a mountain of memories to sift through, so, so much to reflect on and process; it has truly been a whirlwind, worldwide rollercoaster! I'm not sure life in our Hampshire village will ever feel the same.. I'll take some time to let it all sink in, and then I'll be back to share our final thoughts and conclusions.
Meanwhile, we're on a mission during our stopover in Dubai: tracking down this legendary Dubai chocolate trend...
Around the World with the Destecroixs, Learning for Life, Not for School, 2024-2025, officially COMPLETE!
